[add photos of Zermatt, Switzerland (from our hotel room) ]
Great Journey Through Europe with Bonnie and Mike
Saturday 14.06.08 (transfer from Albuquerque to Milano): Day started with the alarm at 3 am in Albuquerque and our Delta flight to Atlanta where we were met by Annabeth & Elaine and treated to a wonderful leisurely lunch at Houligan's in the Atlanta airport. We head off to our international flight with plenty of time to spare, and then end up waiting in the plane parked on the tarmac for hours of unsuccessful repair of sink in the First Class lavatory. This resulted in an additional 3 hour delay and change of planes, two hours more wait before we leave for our 9 ½ hour flight!) We were impressed that our Gohagan Travel Agent guy was still waiting at the airport after we off-loaded two hours later to change planes – he is not allowed to leave us until the plane is actually in the air.
In search of the elusive Matterhorn
Sunday 15.06.08 (Zermatt, Schweishof Hotel): We arrive in Milano quite late - it is Sunday afternoon - to meet Tom Brown, one of our hosts for the trip. We go by bus as far as Täsch (where son Doug stayed while skiing Zermatt with his buddies) and then go by train to Zermatt, which does not allow gasoline-powered vehicles in the town. We are by this time five hours late in the schedule but just in time for the Welcome Party hosted by our Gohagan Travel Co in the Schweishof Hotel. This was followed by dinner and since by this time we had not showered in 35 hours, Bonnie suggested we dine with the West Point group. After dinner, we have a nice walk around town as it is still light outside until 22:00. Bonnie is wiped out after our 35 hr "day." Surprisingly, Mike feels quite elated – perhaps because of deep (but short) sleep aboard the plane, whereas Bonnie has trouble sleeping on planes.
Monday 16.06.08 (Zermatt, Schweishof Hotel): Walked to railway station for Cog train up 10,000 foot Gornergrat (cloudy – no view of Matterhorn) lunch at restaurant up there –Bonnie lit candles in little church on top of mountains. We saw some real marmots and at the top, Bonnie bought a jodeling marmot. Paul and Barb McNaughton (USNA) walked with Bonnie and Mike down the Alps from Findelbach – we make it down OK, but then were at the far end of
Fountain for Marmots: Zermatttown of Zermatt – or was it Winkelmatt? Took us over an hour to wind our way through residential area, cemeteries, past Oom-Pah band with Alpine horn and broom playing. Dinner at hotel with group and then three luggage bags out by 11 pm for trip to Andermatt-Lucerne.
Tuesday 17.06.08 (Lucerne, Palace Hotel): We check into this 5-star hotel, our fanciest by far. Whole box of Swiss chocolates and fresh fruit platter in our room – not too shabby! After a nap, we walked down the promenade along the lake, observing the swans, ducks, and fellow mammals. We walked across the old wooden bridge (from 1200s) and found the church closed for remodeling through 18 June. Many vendor tents are set up for the big yodeling contest later this week.
Upon return, Bonnie enjoyed a cup of tea in the bar lounge ($8) and our talk with Katarina, our German (tall, Aryan) waitress who moved from Germany to Lucerne to work.
While we were gone, the turn-down service had visited our room and closed the automatic shutters overlooking Lake Lucerne. Thus we discovered we had built-in closeable shutters but opened them to enjoy the close of daylight – up to about 10 pm.
Wednesday 18.06.08 (Lucerne, Palace Hotel): Raise the electric shutters, hello Lake Lucerne! Separate tub and shower plus two sinks in this 5-star Palace Hotel. Breakfast included is extensive, from fresh fruit and yogurt and six cereal choices to scrambled eggs, bacon, and sausage and "cute" little French toast (like biscuits). Coffee, hot tea, fruit juice is included.
…cows mit bells in the Alps
… on the cog train heading down Alps…
We travel up Pilatus (long story re: body of Pontius Pilate) Mountain in 4-person ski-lifts and then transfer to 40-person gondolas. On the way we hear multitude of cow bells and see the cows grazing and flopping their heads around – quite loud! Too cloudy to see Mount Pilatus but once in a while during lunch at restaurant on top a mountain goat appears out of the haze and clouds. Then we go into a water-dripping cave which Bonnie retreats from – "sewer tour” as she calls it. The return trip is on a very steep cog train, quite a different experience from the trip up. Did someone say the cog broke? Oh no, they said the fog broke. (Whew!)
When we return from Pilatus Kolm, the sun starts shining through and we board a boat for a cruise across Lake Lucerene – beautiful! We get off the boat at the railway station and walk across the first Reusse River bridge to buy one-half loaf bread, an apple turnover, one extra pastry.
Thursday 19.06.08 (coach from Lucerne to Basil): We board coach and go to see the "saddest sculpture I have ever seen" – Mark Train: Dying lion (spear broken off in his back) to commemorate the 800 Swiss mercenaries (officers and troops) guillotined/massacred by the French Revolutionaries, 1789. Then back on the coach for a visit to Interlaken (beautiful little village) and then on to Bern, the "brains" of Switzerland. We learn the store fronts are one, two, or three arches wide depending upon the wealth of the original burghers. Switzerland/Bern has two classes of people: the burghers and the common people. We borrow 4 Swiss Francs from Bev Treis (of Bob & Bev USNA) to visit the Einstein apt where Albert lived during his "miracles year" of 1905 when at age of 26 he published six papers (including both special and general relativity) while working in the Swiss Patent Office. In Basil we board the Amadeus Princess and begin the “cruise” part of our adventure up (down) the Rhine River.
Friday 20.06.08 (Strasburg, France): Our male guide on the coach gives the dates when Alsace-Lorraine was German, then French, then German, then French. The monotone and list of dates soon puts us to sleep. During the walking tour of Strasburg our guide is more animated, telling of the German soldiers coming back with "the French Disease." For the French, they called it "the Romantic Disease" and created Petite French section of Strasburg. Structures in Strasburg are built on a sandstone base, and the upper floors push out since taxes were based on the ground floor footprint.
The Cathedral is truly stupendous and again with the dates of when it was built – total is over 300 years. There were always plans to erect a second steeple but no money to do so. We see the clock in the inside front right corner which has action every 15 minutes with a soldier or old man figurine mov
ing. The days of the week move continually using statuary based on Roman basis for the days (Jupiter for Thursday, e.g.). We were there on Friday – Venus (vendredi). That afternoon we walk through large park with old walls and bocce players.
[add photos of "Down to Hell" – Cornhaus restaurant, Strasborg. and
Some of the clock of Strasburg cathedral ]
Saturday 21.06.08 (Mannheim): Heidelberg: Ate breakfast with couple from Syracuse, plus Dudley & Georgia Chase (USNA) – this cruise started with alumni from USNA, USMA, Bucknell, Indiana, and Purdue, then added Notre Dame and Syracuse. We take the coach early (08:00) for 40 minute drive to Heidelberg. There we meet Susann who is an excellent tour guide, with clear voice/clear E
nglish, good enthusiasm and knowledge. We first tour the Heidelberg Castle (model for Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland). The views from castle are breathtaking! In town we hear sounds of rehearsal for the organ recital emanating from the Church. The Ritter Hotel is a treasure, built in 1592 by the cloth dealer Carolus Belier of brown sandstone, full of fluted columns and ornately carved window decorations. Susann says homes like this are example of the German phrase "stone rich" when people were wealthy to make the entire house of stone rather than only the ground floor. During our free time, we get the kissing chocolate (symbolic of Heidelberg and the “Student Prince”) There we use "the service" at Grundel's to order a mixed fruit tart and a strawberry chocolate tart, plus hot tea for Bonnie. Unsuccessful stop at Rosenthal's to obtain a creamer of the design we liked aboard ship – we find these are not sold through their retail stores, only to restaurant supplies. Dr. Alex Hahn (ND prof. of mathematics) presents his second talk: "Reflections of Germany" and we follow that with the USNA cocktail party which also invites the three West Point couples. This time we showered first. After dinner we walked the 400 yards to the wine town of Rüdesheim. Sommer Soltice parties in full swing – although some streets are deserted, several are jumping with accordion music, polka, even Achy Breaky Heart and Elvis numbers. We see members of the Amadeus staff out in town, all to enjoy Mid Summer's Eve, the longest day. The Amadeus Capt wants to enjoy Netherlands in quarterfinals of EURO2008 however Russia prevails 3 -1 (OT).
Sunday 22.06.08 (Rüdesheim): This morning we embark in mini-trains for a walking tour of Rüdesheim, covering some of last night's preamble however adding two of the three castles/gardens. We see many vineyards and small family wineries – even a hotel with rooms inside wine barrels – hello claustrophobia! The town here, like so many we saw is bursting with blossoms and flower-filled window boxes – the colors and varieties are spectacular! We choose to walk back to the ship, remembering a safe place to cross the railroad track. 150 trains come through Rüdesheim every day.
That afternoon finds us in Koblentz at the confluence of the Mosel and Rhein rivers, with our most dramatic and enjoyable guide to date: Beate Steinacker, with high heels, a lot of makeup, and a strong dramatic delivery. Beate was an accountant for 37 years who retired 7 years ago and wanted to talk with people again. Beate introduces us to Kaiser Wilhelm whose statue at the German Corner dates from 1871. It was tipped over by shelling from the Allied army in WWII, and the "original head" ended up in the museum and provided copper for the two church roosters (to show which church is Catholic at this time in town).
At dinner we talk of the Alumni Foundation: George Watt controversy (with Jerry Anderson, former Class of 1964 president) and Dick Johnson (Executive Director of USNA Foundation) who worked with Cindy McCain on a surprise for John using $ from McCain's book to underwrite the USNA Ethics Center. Bonnie chooses Surf & Turf; I choose salmon with spinach. Dessert is flaming (actually sparklers) baked Alaska and we stay up talking until 22:30.
Monday 23.06.08 (Cologne): We dock at granite stairs leading up to promenade where we meet our guide Detlev who tells us of his essay "Pain and Sacrifice" (49 cents, Amazon.com). "Make me rich!" The Cologne Cathedral is visible almost at once – Cologne was 97% destroyed by Allied bombing but cathedral was purposely spared to use as a landmark for bombers. Bonnie was surprised they allow artists to paint on the sidewalk outside the cathedral. A chalk artist was receiving tips for his rendition of a bright eyed unicorn. Is this the largest cathedral in Europe? how does one measure – by height? size of façade? Bonnie buys a booklet inside – we walk through the railway station next to the cathedral which has large food mart with "McClean" Water Closet for Euro1.10. Bonnie decides to wait for the “McFree” facilities on ship and we walk back under the railroad bridge with many school children. Mike lies down in the cabin for awhile and Bonnie has to come rouse him for lunch. The American flag displays at lunch to set the stage for menu which includes hamburgers with fixings plus French fries (plus wedge fries). That night the dinner is the German Dinner and Bonnie tries sauerbraten. Yum yum!
Tuesday 24.06.08 (Amsterdam): End of the line for many of our cruise-mates, but we are signed on for two days in Amsterdam. We check into the Sofitel Hotel centrally located in downtown area and within easy walking distance of many of the city’s highlights. The first day we find ourselves absolutely delighted with this town with its concentric canal structure and leaning houses with hooks on the top gable for warehouse maneuvers. Great! We could spend many days in this town! The only drawback is the seven hundred and fifty thousand bicyclists, half of whom tried to kill us! That afternoon we bravely walk a lot and we visit the Rijksmuseum (home of many Rembrandts including The Night Watch which does not travel) and the Anne Frank haus – a very sobering experience.
Wednesday 25.06.08 (Amsterdam): Nice breakfast buffet in Hotel where we visit with Rob and Becky Broderick (USMA). They spend a lot of time in Ireland and will go there again after Amsterdam to see their new grandson. We enjoy tour of the beautifully quaint and immaculately clean fishing/canal town of Enkhausen and lunch in Hoorn. We return to Amsterdam, splash some water on our faces, and eat our pastries we purchased the previous night. At 17:15 we head out to Centraal Railway Station, noting that the tram takes about the same time as walking. Upon arrival we head for the Information Desk only to learn that for our international travel, we must go to Service Center. They ask us where we will be traveling and we say Germany, and get assigned #C789 for assistance. They are currently serving #C698. A long wait – but what choice do we have? 1 ½ hour wait – then Hey, it's our turn! We get a very nice Amsterdam lady who spends quite a bit of time with us, describing our options and the difference between first and second class. Her advice is to take second class, and we purchase tickets with reserved seats – Bonnie notices that but we're not sure what it means…we do note that everyone else in the Service Center are students with backpacks …
Thursday 26.06.08 (from Amsterdam to Kaiserslautern by train) What an experience! Bonnie says next time we have to fly, or go first class. Mike about kills the two of us trying to wrestle the two big suitcases onto the escalator up to the platform with Bonnie close behind. Wrong platform (and elevator only a few feet away, but we never noticed). But we learned a lot. Fortunately, we went to Train Station yesterday afternoon and have our tickets but we don't understand the reservations – as it turns out, we have two seats assigned in Car 22 but we have no idea where car 22 is or how the seats are numbered. We sit in some handicapped seats until we get thrown out by some handicapped people. Actually, they were very nice, and we share their space with them until the train breaks down somewhere near the border and we all have to get up and change trains. This loses our seats for us and we scramble around again. This also puts us dangerously late for transfer of ICE train to K-town, but one young man has helped us schlep our bags off the train and another gentleman runs ahead to tell the K-town train that we are coming. Young man refuses a tip and Bonnie tells him to tell his mother that she raised a fine young man. Nice people!
Daughter-in-law Robin picks us up at train station and we head to Doug & Robin’s house. Spain & Italy are playing soccer semi-finals, so we head to a little restaurant/bar to watch game. We’re a little embarrassed as we’re way over-dressed being the only patrons with clothes on - Everyone else in bathrobes & slippers! We find out later there is a sauna in that facility which many locals use before they hit the pub.
Friday 27.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen, Germany with Robin): Town name translates to something like a valley with oak trees and frogs. Robin goes in to work today and this allows us to sleep in – when we awake, we have to get wireless repaired and then figure out how to use the lock on the front door. Bonnie locks herself out and has to climb in through George's doggie door. Then we hike down to the CAP store for pig salami, milch, und butter.
Saturday 28.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen, Germany): After leisurely morning, we head out with Robin driving toward the border with France. No problem crossing and we head for the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery, the largest American military cemetery in Europe, 26 miles northwest of Verdun. The Meuse-Argonne Offensive was the climax toward which the efforts of the American Expeditionary Forces were directed since arrival of U.S. troops in France in 1918, the last year of the war. It would be the largest battle ever fought by U.S. troops up to that time in U.S. history. The area between the Meuse River and the Argonne Forest was chosen because it was the portion of the German front which the enemy could least afford to lose. The US First Army attacked at 0530 on 26 September; by 4 November the enemy was in full retreat on both sides of the river. On 7 Nov, the heights overlooking the city of Sedan were taken, giving domination over the German railroad communications, compelling the enemy to seek an immediate armistice, effective 11.11.1918.
The grounds of the cemetery are beautiful; Robin said the way they trimmed the tops and sides of the trees reminds her of the way the promenades are trimmed in Paris. Bonnie and Mike found the Reception area has absolutely the most clean and well-maintained public restrooms in our experience, anywhere. France has provided the cemetery land in perpetuity to the Americans, and the American Cemetery organization maintains the 137 acres.
Burg Trifels c. 1193
Sunday 29.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen): Robin drives us to Burg Trifels (burg is fortress; different from a castle: schluss). Robin helps us order lunch at restaurant at burg base area and again we are impressed with her command and confidence with speaking German. We climb to see where Richard Lion Heart was held prisoner by Henry VI, Holy Roman Emperor, who imprisoned him in Burg Trifels for about a year in 1193 as he returned from the Crusade until Mom Eleanor of Aquitaine (K. Hepburn) paid the outrageous ransom.
This evening is the big game: Germany vs Espana for the EURO2008 füßballspiel championship. We head for "public viewing" in Thaleischweiler-Fröschen with the locals (see photo next page). Before halftime, Bonnie buys us a brat sandwich and Coca-Cola Light to share. Robin joins us at halftime, her school paper ("Internet Ethics") complete. Locals are disappointed with the 0-1 finish, no goals for the home team.
Monday 30.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen): Robin takes the day off, trims hedges in back yard, feeds goldfish. Bonnie takes an adventure stroll down to town to try out the Geldautomat (ATM) and the Bakery. Mike works the trip report. We had planned to take Robin out for dinner but every restaurant in TW-F is closed on Monday so Robin suggests pizza and beer and soda and NetFlix. We watch one of Mike's favorites: The Man Who Would Be King (1975) and learn that John Huston originally planned to make it starring Humphrey Bogart and Clark Gable but 25 years went by. We carry our luggage up to floor 1 tonight for the transfer tomorrow.
Greenland glacier seen from planeTuesday 01.07.08 (transfer Frankfurt-Atlanta-Albuquerque): All rise at 4:30 am for 05:35 departure for Frankfort airport. As our sp
ecial farewell a cute little hedgehog appears in front of the house. Robin does great job driving and we arrive at Delta in good shape, go through the ticket line and multiple security checks that Doug had warned us about. The last one is at the actual gate: at 8 am they chase everyone out of the gate area, then we re-enter showing passport and boarding pass. We meet a young Atlanta lad who tells of this routine as he has been trying to fly back stand-by for a week. Good plane with video this time. We are fascinated with the view of Greenland with its plains of snow and mountains and glaciers - Bonnie takes this photo (at right) out of the plane window.
In Atlanta it takes us about an hour to off-load, go through customs, claim our previously-checked luggage, load it onto a cart and take it to Customs, then back out to security area for one more trip through TSA. Amazingly, we meet Sue & Don Belbutoski (Purdue) from our Tour who also stayed extra time in Europe. Annabeth and Elaine drive in to luggage area and this time we have cell phones so transfer to their vehicle for transfer to 2299 Shasta. We get to see their 'new' home (5 years now) and all they have done with their inside collections and outside gardening. Elaine prepares fresh broiled salmon with their local restaurant favorite vegetables and two kinds of bread and fancy imported butter - great! We are a little nervous on the ride back but Elaine gets us into the carpool lane and we get there in good time. By now Mike has our confirmation number memorized and we get our boarding passes easily. Hardest trip was these last two-three hours to Albuquerque - perhaps we are tiring?
Arriving in Albuquerque at 9 pm local, we call son David and he meets us with Toyota at baggage area. Traveling for 24 hours today, and back home: Hurray, we did it!
Summary and Exceptions: We experienced much, learned more. And enjoyed ourselves tremendously on every single day. Looking back, highlights included the Palace Hotel (Lucerne), Switzerland (photo above), Amsterdam (except for Centraal Station), the two trips with Robin and the salmon with Annabeth and Elaine. We loved all the beautifully blooming flower pots on balconies in every town we visited. Most importantly, we learned we not only can survive the long plane rides but that (except perhaps for last little leg from ATL to ABQ) we did quite well entertaining ourselves.
Security was never a concern (except when Bonnie got her hidden passport wallet tied up in Annabeth's back seatbelt). Our only real struggle was schlepping our bags around during our 6-hour train ride to K-town - thus we really appreciated the tour conveniences with most of our restaurants and meals ready for us and plans made.
We needed light jackets for about half the trip. We recommend the Eagle Creek packets for packing luggage. Personally we travel very well together, laughed a lot with ourselves and others. A great trip and a great life experience!
Great Journey Through Europe with Bonnie and Mike
Saturday 14.06.08 (transfer from Albuquerque to Milano): Day started with the alarm at 3 am in Albuquerque and our Delta flight to Atlanta where we were met by Annabeth & Elaine and treated to a wonderful leisurely lunch at Houligan's in the Atlanta airport. We head off to our international flight with plenty of time to spare, and then end up waiting in the plane parked on the tarmac for hours of unsuccessful repair of sink in the First Class lavatory. This resulted in an additional 3 hour delay and change of planes, two hours more wait before we leave for our 9 ½ hour flight!) We were impressed that our Gohagan Travel Agent guy was still waiting at the airport after we off-loaded two hours later to change planes – he is not allowed to leave us until the plane is actually in the air.
In search of the elusive Matterhorn
Sunday 15.06.08 (Zermatt, Schweishof Hotel): We arrive in Milano quite late - it is Sunday afternoon - to meet Tom Brown, one of our hosts for the trip. We go by bus as far as Täsch (where son Doug stayed while skiing Zermatt with his buddies) and then go by train to Zermatt, which does not allow gasoline-powered vehicles in the town. We are by this time five hours late in the schedule but just in time for the Welcome Party hosted by our Gohagan Travel Co in the Schweishof Hotel. This was followed by dinner and since by this time we had not showered in 35 hours, Bonnie suggested we dine with the West Point group. After dinner, we have a nice walk around town as it is still light outside until 22:00. Bonnie is wiped out after our 35 hr "day." Surprisingly, Mike feels quite elated – perhaps because of deep (but short) sleep aboard the plane, whereas Bonnie has trouble sleeping on planes.
Monday 16.06.08 (Zermatt, Schweishof Hotel): Walked to railway station for Cog train up 10,000 foot Gornergrat (cloudy – no view of Matterhorn) lunch at restaurant up there –Bonnie lit candles in little church on top of mountains. We saw some real marmots and at the top, Bonnie bought a jodeling marmot. Paul and Barb McNaughton (USNA) walked with Bonnie and Mike down the Alps from Findelbach – we make it down OK, but then were at the far end of
Fountain for Marmots: Zermatttown of Zermatt – or was it Winkelmatt? Took us over an hour to wind our way through residential area, cemeteries, past Oom-Pah band with Alpine horn and broom playing. Dinner at hotel with group and then three luggage bags out by 11 pm for trip to Andermatt-Lucerne.
Tuesday 17.06.08 (Lucerne, Palace Hotel): We check into this 5-star hotel, our fanciest by far. Whole box of Swiss chocolates and fresh fruit platter in our room – not too shabby! After a nap, we walked down the promenade along the lake, observing the swans, ducks, and fellow mammals. We walked across the old wooden bridge (from 1200s) and found the church closed for remodeling through 18 June. Many vendor tents are set up for the big yodeling contest later this week.
Upon return, Bonnie enjoyed a cup of tea in the bar lounge ($8) and our talk with Katarina, our German (tall, Aryan) waitress who moved from Germany to Lucerne to work.
While we were gone, the turn-down service had visited our room and closed the automatic shutters overlooking Lake Lucerne. Thus we discovered we had built-in closeable shutters but opened them to enjoy the close of daylight – up to about 10 pm.
Wednesday 18.06.08 (Lucerne, Palace Hotel): Raise the electric shutters, hello Lake Lucerne! Separate tub and shower plus two sinks in this 5-star Palace Hotel. Breakfast included is extensive, from fresh fruit and yogurt and six cereal choices to scrambled eggs, bacon, and sausage and "cute" little French toast (like biscuits). Coffee, hot tea, fruit juice is included.
…cows mit bells in the Alps
… on the cog train heading down Alps…
We travel up Pilatus (long story re: body of Pontius Pilate) Mountain in 4-person ski-lifts and then transfer to 40-person gondolas. On the way we hear multitude of cow bells and see the cows grazing and flopping their heads around – quite loud! Too cloudy to see Mount Pilatus but once in a while during lunch at restaurant on top a mountain goat appears out of the haze and clouds. Then we go into a water-dripping cave which Bonnie retreats from – "sewer tour” as she calls it. The return trip is on a very steep cog train, quite a different experience from the trip up. Did someone say the cog broke? Oh no, they said the fog broke. (Whew!)
When we return from Pilatus Kolm, the sun starts shining through and we board a boat for a cruise across Lake Lucerene – beautiful! We get off the boat at the railway station and walk across the first Reusse River bridge to buy one-half loaf bread, an apple turnover, one extra pastry.
Thursday 19.06.08 (coach from Lucerne to Basil): We board coach and go to see the "saddest sculpture I have ever seen" – Mark Train: Dying lion (spear broken off in his back) to commemorate the 800 Swiss mercenaries (officers and troops) guillotined/massacred by the French Revolutionaries, 1789. Then back on the coach for a visit to Interlaken (beautiful little village) and then on to Bern, the "brains" of Switzerland. We learn the store fronts are one, two, or three arches wide depending upon the wealth of the original burghers. Switzerland/Bern has two classes of people: the burghers and the common people. We borrow 4 Swiss Francs from Bev Treis (of Bob & Bev USNA) to visit the Einstein apt where Albert lived during his "miracles year" of 1905 when at age of 26 he published six papers (including both special and general relativity) while working in the Swiss Patent Office. In Basil we board the Amadeus Princess and begin the “cruise” part of our adventure up (down) the Rhine River.
Friday 20.06.08 (Strasburg, France): Our male guide on the coach gives the dates when Alsace-Lorraine was German, then French, then German, then French. The monotone and list of dates soon puts us to sleep. During the walking tour of Strasburg our guide is more animated, telling of the German soldiers coming back with "the French Disease." For the French, they called it "the Romantic Disease" and created Petite French section of Strasburg. Structures in Strasburg are built on a sandstone base, and the upper floors push out since taxes were based on the ground floor footprint.
The Cathedral is truly stupendous and again with the dates of when it was built – total is over 300 years. There were always plans to erect a second steeple but no money to do so. We see the clock in the inside front right corner which has action every 15 minutes with a soldier or old man figurine mov
ing. The days of the week move continually using statuary based on Roman basis for the days (Jupiter for Thursday, e.g.). We were there on Friday – Venus (vendredi). That afternoon we walk through large park with old walls and bocce players.[add photos of "Down to Hell" – Cornhaus restaurant, Strasborg. and
Some of the clock of Strasburg cathedral ]
Saturday 21.06.08 (Mannheim): Heidelberg: Ate breakfast with couple from Syracuse, plus Dudley & Georgia Chase (USNA) – this cruise started with alumni from USNA, USMA, Bucknell, Indiana, and Purdue, then added Notre Dame and Syracuse. We take the coach early (08:00) for 40 minute drive to Heidelberg. There we meet Susann who is an excellent tour guide, with clear voice/clear E
nglish, good enthusiasm and knowledge. We first tour the Heidelberg Castle (model for Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland). The views from castle are breathtaking! In town we hear sounds of rehearsal for the organ recital emanating from the Church. The Ritter Hotel is a treasure, built in 1592 by the cloth dealer Carolus Belier of brown sandstone, full of fluted columns and ornately carved window decorations. Susann says homes like this are example of the German phrase "stone rich" when people were wealthy to make the entire house of stone rather than only the ground floor. During our free time, we get the kissing chocolate (symbolic of Heidelberg and the “Student Prince”) There we use "the service" at Grundel's to order a mixed fruit tart and a strawberry chocolate tart, plus hot tea for Bonnie. Unsuccessful stop at Rosenthal's to obtain a creamer of the design we liked aboard ship – we find these are not sold through their retail stores, only to restaurant supplies. Dr. Alex Hahn (ND prof. of mathematics) presents his second talk: "Reflections of Germany" and we follow that with the USNA cocktail party which also invites the three West Point couples. This time we showered first. After dinner we walked the 400 yards to the wine town of Rüdesheim. Sommer Soltice parties in full swing – although some streets are deserted, several are jumping with accordion music, polka, even Achy Breaky Heart and Elvis numbers. We see members of the Amadeus staff out in town, all to enjoy Mid Summer's Eve, the longest day. The Amadeus Capt wants to enjoy Netherlands in quarterfinals of EURO2008 however Russia prevails 3 -1 (OT).Sunday 22.06.08 (Rüdesheim): This morning we embark in mini-trains for a walking tour of Rüdesheim, covering some of last night's preamble however adding two of the three castles/gardens. We see many vineyards and small family wineries – even a hotel with rooms inside wine barrels – hello claustrophobia! The town here, like so many we saw is bursting with blossoms and flower-filled window boxes – the colors and varieties are spectacular! We choose to walk back to the ship, remembering a safe place to cross the railroad track. 150 trains come through Rüdesheim every day.
That afternoon finds us in Koblentz at the confluence of the Mosel and Rhein rivers, with our most dramatic and enjoyable guide to date: Beate Steinacker, with high heels, a lot of makeup, and a strong dramatic delivery. Beate was an accountant for 37 years who retired 7 years ago and wanted to talk with people again. Beate introduces us to Kaiser Wilhelm whose statue at the German Corner dates from 1871. It was tipped over by shelling from the Allied army in WWII, and the "original head" ended up in the museum and provided copper for the two church roosters (to show which church is Catholic at this time in town).
At dinner we talk of the Alumni Foundation: George Watt controversy (with Jerry Anderson, former Class of 1964 president) and Dick Johnson (Executive Director of USNA Foundation) who worked with Cindy McCain on a surprise for John using $ from McCain's book to underwrite the USNA Ethics Center. Bonnie chooses Surf & Turf; I choose salmon with spinach. Dessert is flaming (actually sparklers) baked Alaska and we stay up talking until 22:30.
Monday 23.06.08 (Cologne): We dock at granite stairs leading up to promenade where we meet our guide Detlev who tells us of his essay "Pain and Sacrifice" (49 cents, Amazon.com). "Make me rich!" The Cologne Cathedral is visible almost at once – Cologne was 97% destroyed by Allied bombing but cathedral was purposely spared to use as a landmark for bombers. Bonnie was surprised they allow artists to paint on the sidewalk outside the cathedral. A chalk artist was receiving tips for his rendition of a bright eyed unicorn. Is this the largest cathedral in Europe? how does one measure – by height? size of façade? Bonnie buys a booklet inside – we walk through the railway station next to the cathedral which has large food mart with "McClean" Water Closet for Euro1.10. Bonnie decides to wait for the “McFree” facilities on ship and we walk back under the railroad bridge with many school children. Mike lies down in the cabin for awhile and Bonnie has to come rouse him for lunch. The American flag displays at lunch to set the stage for menu which includes hamburgers with fixings plus French fries (plus wedge fries). That night the dinner is the German Dinner and Bonnie tries sauerbraten. Yum yum!
Tuesday 24.06.08 (Amsterdam): End of the line for many of our cruise-mates, but we are signed on for two days in Amsterdam. We check into the Sofitel Hotel centrally located in downtown area and within easy walking distance of many of the city’s highlights. The first day we find ourselves absolutely delighted with this town with its concentric canal structure and leaning houses with hooks on the top gable for warehouse maneuvers. Great! We could spend many days in this town! The only drawback is the seven hundred and fifty thousand bicyclists, half of whom tried to kill us! That afternoon we bravely walk a lot and we visit the Rijksmuseum (home of many Rembrandts including The Night Watch which does not travel) and the Anne Frank haus – a very sobering experience.
Wednesday 25.06.08 (Amsterdam): Nice breakfast buffet in Hotel where we visit with Rob and Becky Broderick (USMA). They spend a lot of time in Ireland and will go there again after Amsterdam to see their new grandson. We enjoy tour of the beautifully quaint and immaculately clean fishing/canal town of Enkhausen and lunch in Hoorn. We return to Amsterdam, splash some water on our faces, and eat our pastries we purchased the previous night. At 17:15 we head out to Centraal Railway Station, noting that the tram takes about the same time as walking. Upon arrival we head for the Information Desk only to learn that for our international travel, we must go to Service Center. They ask us where we will be traveling and we say Germany, and get assigned #C789 for assistance. They are currently serving #C698. A long wait – but what choice do we have? 1 ½ hour wait – then Hey, it's our turn! We get a very nice Amsterdam lady who spends quite a bit of time with us, describing our options and the difference between first and second class. Her advice is to take second class, and we purchase tickets with reserved seats – Bonnie notices that but we're not sure what it means…we do note that everyone else in the Service Center are students with backpacks …
Thursday 26.06.08 (from Amsterdam to Kaiserslautern by train) What an experience! Bonnie says next time we have to fly, or go first class. Mike about kills the two of us trying to wrestle the two big suitcases onto the escalator up to the platform with Bonnie close behind. Wrong platform (and elevator only a few feet away, but we never noticed). But we learned a lot. Fortunately, we went to Train Station yesterday afternoon and have our tickets but we don't understand the reservations – as it turns out, we have two seats assigned in Car 22 but we have no idea where car 22 is or how the seats are numbered. We sit in some handicapped seats until we get thrown out by some handicapped people. Actually, they were very nice, and we share their space with them until the train breaks down somewhere near the border and we all have to get up and change trains. This loses our seats for us and we scramble around again. This also puts us dangerously late for transfer of ICE train to K-town, but one young man has helped us schlep our bags off the train and another gentleman runs ahead to tell the K-town train that we are coming. Young man refuses a tip and Bonnie tells him to tell his mother that she raised a fine young man. Nice people!
Daughter-in-law Robin picks us up at train station and we head to Doug & Robin’s house. Spain & Italy are playing soccer semi-finals, so we head to a little restaurant/bar to watch game. We’re a little embarrassed as we’re way over-dressed being the only patrons with clothes on - Everyone else in bathrobes & slippers! We find out later there is a sauna in that facility which many locals use before they hit the pub.
Friday 27.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen, Germany with Robin): Town name translates to something like a valley with oak trees and frogs. Robin goes in to work today and this allows us to sleep in – when we awake, we have to get wireless repaired and then figure out how to use the lock on the front door. Bonnie locks herself out and has to climb in through George's doggie door. Then we hike down to the CAP store for pig salami, milch, und butter.
Saturday 28.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen, Germany): After leisurely morning, we head out with Robin driving toward the border with France. No problem crossing and we head for the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery, the largest American military cemetery in Europe, 26 miles northwest of Verdun. The Meuse-Argonne Offensive was the climax toward which the efforts of the American Expeditionary Forces were directed since arrival of U.S. troops in France in 1918, the last year of the war. It would be the largest battle ever fought by U.S. troops up to that time in U.S. history. The area between the Meuse River and the Argonne Forest was chosen because it was the portion of the German front which the enemy could least afford to lose. The US First Army attacked at 0530 on 26 September; by 4 November the enemy was in full retreat on both sides of the river. On 7 Nov, the heights overlooking the city of Sedan were taken, giving domination over the German railroad communications, compelling the enemy to seek an immediate armistice, effective 11.11.1918.
The grounds of the cemetery are beautiful; Robin said the way they trimmed the tops and sides of the trees reminds her of the way the promenades are trimmed in Paris. Bonnie and Mike found the Reception area has absolutely the most clean and well-maintained public restrooms in our experience, anywhere. France has provided the cemetery land in perpetuity to the Americans, and the American Cemetery organization maintains the 137 acres.
Burg Trifels c. 1193
Sunday 29.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen): Robin drives us to Burg Trifels (burg is fortress; different from a castle: schluss). Robin helps us order lunch at restaurant at burg base area and again we are impressed with her command and confidence with speaking German. We climb to see where Richard Lion Heart was held prisoner by Henry VI, Holy Roman Emperor, who imprisoned him in Burg Trifels for about a year in 1193 as he returned from the Crusade until Mom Eleanor of Aquitaine (K. Hepburn) paid the outrageous ransom.
This evening is the big game: Germany vs Espana for the EURO2008 füßballspiel championship. We head for "public viewing" in Thaleischweiler-Fröschen with the locals (see photo next page). Before halftime, Bonnie buys us a brat sandwich and Coca-Cola Light to share. Robin joins us at halftime, her school paper ("Internet Ethics") complete. Locals are disappointed with the 0-1 finish, no goals for the home team.
Monday 30.06.08 (Thaleischweiler-Fröschen): Robin takes the day off, trims hedges in back yard, feeds goldfish. Bonnie takes an adventure stroll down to town to try out the Geldautomat (ATM) and the Bakery. Mike works the trip report. We had planned to take Robin out for dinner but every restaurant in TW-F is closed on Monday so Robin suggests pizza and beer and soda and NetFlix. We watch one of Mike's favorites: The Man Who Would Be King (1975) and learn that John Huston originally planned to make it starring Humphrey Bogart and Clark Gable but 25 years went by. We carry our luggage up to floor 1 tonight for the transfer tomorrow.
Greenland glacier seen from planeTuesday 01.07.08 (transfer Frankfurt-Atlanta-Albuquerque): All rise at 4:30 am for 05:35 departure for Frankfort airport. As our sp
ecial farewell a cute little hedgehog appears in front of the house. Robin does great job driving and we arrive at Delta in good shape, go through the ticket line and multiple security checks that Doug had warned us about. The last one is at the actual gate: at 8 am they chase everyone out of the gate area, then we re-enter showing passport and boarding pass. We meet a young Atlanta lad who tells of this routine as he has been trying to fly back stand-by for a week. Good plane with video this time. We are fascinated with the view of Greenland with its plains of snow and mountains and glaciers - Bonnie takes this photo (at right) out of the plane window.In Atlanta it takes us about an hour to off-load, go through customs, claim our previously-checked luggage, load it onto a cart and take it to Customs, then back out to security area for one more trip through TSA. Amazingly, we meet Sue & Don Belbutoski (Purdue) from our Tour who also stayed extra time in Europe. Annabeth and Elaine drive in to luggage area and this time we have cell phones so transfer to their vehicle for transfer to 2299 Shasta. We get to see their 'new' home (5 years now) and all they have done with their inside collections and outside gardening. Elaine prepares fresh broiled salmon with their local restaurant favorite vegetables and two kinds of bread and fancy imported butter - great! We are a little nervous on the ride back but Elaine gets us into the carpool lane and we get there in good time. By now Mike has our confirmation number memorized and we get our boarding passes easily. Hardest trip was these last two-three hours to Albuquerque - perhaps we are tiring?
Arriving in Albuquerque at 9 pm local, we call son David and he meets us with Toyota at baggage area. Traveling for 24 hours today, and back home: Hurray, we did it!
Summary and Exceptions: We experienced much, learned more. And enjoyed ourselves tremendously on every single day. Looking back, highlights included the Palace Hotel (Lucerne), Switzerland (photo above), Amsterdam (except for Centraal Station), the two trips with Robin and the salmon with Annabeth and Elaine. We loved all the beautifully blooming flower pots on balconies in every town we visited. Most importantly, we learned we not only can survive the long plane rides but that (except perhaps for last little leg from ATL to ABQ) we did quite well entertaining ourselves.
Security was never a concern (except when Bonnie got her hidden passport wallet tied up in Annabeth's back seatbelt). Our only real struggle was schlepping our bags around during our 6-hour train ride to K-town - thus we really appreciated the tour conveniences with most of our restaurants and meals ready for us and plans made.
We needed light jackets for about half the trip. We recommend the Eagle Creek packets for packing luggage. Personally we travel very well together, laughed a lot with ourselves and others. A great trip and a great life experience!
1 comment:
Thanks for a great article. Yes, I agree with you about the sadness of the Lion sculpture. Don't you think that sculpture, in all its forms, is more cutting and direct than two-dimentional art?
Why do we revere sculpture in such a spiritual way?
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